Ulysse Nardin turned 175 this year, and I’m not sure whether that fact surprised me or not when I opened a recent press release and read about it. The company is old, no doubt, and I’ve seen a number of their older marine chronometers as well as mid-century dress watches. But so many of its meaningful advancements are bound up in the mechanical watch renaissance that Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu was itself, at least partly spearheaded by the company’s long time champion, the late Rolf Schnyder. In honor of the anniversary, UN is releasing the new Chronometry collection, which connects the company back to its historically significant role as a maker of sea chronometers. Associated with these new watches, a beautiful, grand feu enamel face is the showstopper. The layout of that dial, which comes via UN-owned Donzé Cadrans, is a familiar one to anyone who’s seen the actual company’s watches. The hours and minutes come from the central axis, and a power reserve indicator occupies a slightly unusual position up at 12. The caliber UN-128 tourbillon is actually down in 6 for a symmetrical look. And the Ulysse Nardin Sea Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Ignition has the Ulysse Nardin Anchor escapement, that uses bucking silicon blades to reduce friction and the need for additional lube.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu has long been at the forefront of using silicon within the watches, and this tourbillon is really a part of that legacy. I like the look the particular of the Torpilleur range and how it’s been executed in this new watch within the Chronometry Collection. The watch combines a vintage-feeling design inspired by Marine Chronometers and a grand feu teeth enamel dial with with one of the more sophisticated escapement technologies we have seen in recent times. That dichotomy feels perfectly representative of Ulysse Nardin as a watchmaker. versace men watches replica